Most vehicles built in the last couple of decades come equipped with on board “check engine” lights. There are other lights on the dashboard, often referred to as “idiot lights” because they were originally invented for mechanically challenged folks who could not read traditional auto gauges. These warning lights are designed to illuminate anytime the vehicle’s on board computer detects something wrong with the engine. In theory, this is a wonderful idea. In reality, it means that approximately 99.5% of vehicles on the road today are cruising around town with “check engine” lights on.
PART 1: The Ritual Unboxing
Maybe that’s an exaggeration. But I bought a nice BMW in 1998 that I’ve owned for 13 years (I am the “buy and hold” type, remember?). In this 1998 car, the “check engine” light has been activated for at least 12 of the 13 years. I’m not kidding. I’ve taken it to auto shops and they’ve turned off the light; it invariably pops back on within a few hundred miles. I finally gave up worrying about it.
There are a few different ways to address check engine lights.
PART 2: Upfixin’ Der Porsche
Of course you can actually “check” the engine, but this will accomplish little except getting your hands dirty.
You can go to certain auto parts stores where they promise to read your codes for “free.” (Just remember, there’s no such thing as a free lunch.) They may or may not turn off the lights.
You can go to a car stealership (dealership, sorry!) and pay them a handsome sum to perform the same task.
Or you can do what we have done, and purchase an OBD2 scanner. These scanners are small computer devices that are designed to interface with your vehicle. You can spend as little as $20, or as much as a few hundred dollars. The cheapest of these devices will merely read the trouble codes generated by your car. The more advanced devices will enable you to erase or turn off the trouble codes. I think the latter functionality merits an additional $30, which is why we chose our particular model.
The OBD2 standard was implemented in 1996, so in theory every car manufactured after 1996 will interface with these scanners. There may be a few exceptions, so be sure to research whether you can expect success with your particular car, truck, or motorhome.
Note that just because you have turned off a “check engine” code, you may still have a problem. Obviously in some cases the trouble codes indicate ACTUAL trouble. Erasing a code is only a temporary fix, as the underlying trouble will persist. In the case of the limping Porsche, we were able to temporarily take the car out of “limp mode,” but we still had an issue with the fuel pump relay. We could make the car perform normally for a little while, and then the relay would trigger another trouble code, and the car would revert to limp mode.
An OBD2 scanner may not cure what ails your vehicle, but it is a handy device to have in your toolkit. We bought ours for about $60 via Amazon.
Waren sie jemals in der Lage, herauszufinden, was das Problem war?
Wir wechselten die Kraftstoffpumpe Relais und das Problem weiterhin besteht! Aber wenigstens bekamen wir das Auto aus schlaff Modus für eine kleine Weile.
OK, either my brain has done some sort of “Twilight Zone” switcheroo, or those last two messages were in German? That’s quite al-right, as I’ve been known to talk to myself in German from time to time. Not that anyone has had to point that out to me though…
Just checking.
Somebody will complain. You watch.
Anyhoo, I was going to say, “Right on!” I’ve been the proud owner of an OBD2 tester for a few years now. Without really keeping track I’m sure it’s saved several times its cost, and has saved money for a few friends who’ve come by to have a “check engine” light question resolved. Once in a while though, it’s something so simple that even the diagnostic tool is overkill, such as not properly tightening a fuel filler cap. Remember, this particular diagnostic tool originated in California to keep up with the ever stricter pollution control laws.
Something like that anyway. I think I read that somewhere.
(remember that line of “The Price is Right”….with “California Emission”?)
The only vexing thing was that the motorhome that we had was only OBD1 compliant! It was a 2000. That sucked, since just about every time I’d start it up after having sat for an extended period of time, the “check engine” light would come on. I just figured it was an oxidized O2 sensor, since it would go away after a few start ups. No flippin’ way I was taking it to the Ford dealer.
Black electrical tape works too when it comes to making it “go away”.
Two observations:
The price of these tools has come down dramatically. (I think I paid double what you paid….on sale) and… I didn’t even get a case! There was no such thing as a case to be had.
I have tester envy.
The pioneers always have to take it on the chin!
Gott sei dank haben wir keine Probleme mit dem BMW.
lg,
Bob.
Hey, Sean, interested in a no-cost way to reset the check engine light (at least some of the time)? In my 2001 Class C with the Ford V-10 gas engine, I had the “Service Engine Soon” light (which, the dealership informed me is actually a “Check Engine” light) that came on and stayed on. The dealership offered to diagnose the problem for $125. Diagnosis ONLY. I could buy the tester myself for less, but I digress. My brother, who generally doesn’t know what he’s talking about, told me to disconnect the positive terminal of the battery, wait a few minutes, and connect it again. I really didn’t want to give the stealership (great term, btw) that much money PLUS whatever it was going to cost to fix it, so I tried it. Viola! It worked. The light went out and hasn’t come back after 100 miles. I don’t know how many different faults this would clear, but there it is.
Richard (Who is completely mechanically inept)